Hearth & Home – Repair/Restore A Veneer Mantel
Before there was central heating, families gathered in front of a cozy fireplace to escape winter's chill. Above the flames, the fireplace mantel served as a place of honor for family photographs and keepsakes. The mantel was often passed down from one generation to the next, as befitting its craftsmanship, beauty and value.
Perhaps you were lucky enough to inherit a family heirloom or discover a hidden treasure. Now that the holidays are approaching, it's a great time to breathe some new life into your old or damaged mantel. You can easily repair or restore it yourself. Just follow our step-by-step advice. You'll be ready for festive holiday gatherings by the fire in no time at all.
Repairing Veneer Bubbles
Patching Damaged Veneer
Helpful Tip:
- You can repair most mantels yourself, but if yours is intricately carved or very valuable, have it repaired by a professional cabinetmaker or craftsman instead.
Safety Alert!
- It's best to do repairs outdoors, but if that's not possible, be sure your workspace is well ventilated.
- Older mantels may contain lead paint and removing it can release toxic lead dust into the air. Women who are pregnant, children and pets should stay away during this process. When you're working with lead dust, always wear a NIOSH-approved respirator and clean all debris carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. For additional safety guidelines, contact the National Lead Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or visit www.epa.gov/lead.
Repairing Veneer Bubbles
While some mantels are made of solid hardwood, others consist of a thin veneer glued on top of a less expensive base material. These give the appearance of solid wood - unless the veneer becomes damaged or the glue fails and causes the edges to separate or the interior to bubble.
Helpful Tip:
- All of these repair techniques require extremely sharp cuts, so even if you're using a sharp matte knife or single-edge razor, you still may damage the veneer. A better choice is a double-edge razor blade.
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Step 1. Reactivate the Glue
Carefully slit the bubble in a straight line following the grain. Soften the glue by heating the surface with a blow dryer or by placing craft paper or brown paper bags over the surface and pressing with a household iron, set to low heat. When the glue becomes tacky, press the area flat with a veneer roller or wallpaper seam roller. Be sure to work quickly, before the glue cools.
Helpful Tip:
- To avoid overheating and softening adjacent veneer surfaces, heat only a small area at a time and press down frequently to check for tackiness. Stop heating as soon as the glue feels soft.
Step 2. Re-glue
If heat doesn't work, you'll have to re-glue. Start by slitting an elongated X through the bubble, following the grain as much as possible. Use a matte knife or sharp wood chisel to scrape off any old glue between the substrate and back of the veneer. Now add a fresh coat of yellow wood glue and remove any excess with a damp cloth. Place a piece of waxed paper on top and cover with a heavy weight, such as a phone book. Allow to set for at least an hour.
Helpful Tip:
- If the veneer has peeled away from the edge, use the same techniques noted above, but don't slit the veneer.
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Patching Damaged Veneer
Bubbles or peeling may not be the problem. Common household accidents like spills, burns or flying balls and other projectiles can cause dents, scratches and other unsightly damage to your mantel. If you can't live with the dings here's how to patch them with new veneer:
Step 1. Cut Out the Damaged Veneer
Using a matte knife cut out the area around the damaged veneer in an elongated diamond shape. Try to make the long points of the diamond follow the grain as much as possible to help the new patch blend with the surrounding area.
Helpful Tips:
- Always use a new blade to ensure sharpness.
- Use a metal ruler or straight edge to guide you as you cut.
Step 2. Remove Veneer and Old Glue
Remove the cut veneer with a matte knife or a sharp wood chisel, beveled side down. Scrape off as much of the old glue as possible, right down to the wood.
Step 3. Trace the Patch
Place a piece of tracing paper over the cutout and lightly rub the perimeter with the side of a soft pencil to create a stencil. Tape the stencil to a piece of matching wood veneer.
Helpful Tips:
- Tape the piece of new veneer to a cutting board to keep it steady while you trace and cut.
- When selecting the veneer that will serve as the patch, try to match the grain and color of the damaged area as best you can.
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Step 4. Cut the Patch
Use your matte knife to cut through the tracing paper and replacement veneer (use your straight edge as a guide). Test to make sure it's a good fit. If it's too large, sand the edges carefully with fine sandpaper, following the grain. Be extremely cautious - the veneer will be delicate, especially at the points.
Step 5. Install the Patch
Brush a thin coat of yellow wood glue on the back of the veneer patch and another on the surface of the substrate. Set the new veneer in place and apply pressure by rolling with a veneer roller or wallpaper seam roller. Cover with a piece of wax paper and place a block of wood on top. To set, apply a C-clamp or use a heavy weight for about an hour.
Step 6. Sand and Finish
Sand the patch until it's level with the surrounding area, then apply stain and finish to match the existing surface.
Helpful Tip:
- To help the patch blend in, extend the grain lines between the patch and the surrounding area with permanent markers or an artist's brush and oil paints (complete this step before you apply finish).
For more project ideas, visit the Project Library >